Haeinsa temple stay 來去海印寺住一晚
閱讀時間約 12 分鐘
Temple Stay was the side projectof my tango trip to Busan Tango Marathon.
騎單車環台灣島的時候住過香客大樓，這次韓國旅行試試 Temple Stay。
Why Haeinsa？韓國三大名刹之一的海印寺
Locates in Gayasan national park, Haeinsa preserves the oldest and most wholesome wooden print tablets of the Bhuddist scripts, Tripiṭaka Koreana, made from 1236. The temple burnt down in a fire in 1817 but the wooden tablets servived. It has been stored in semi-open-air libray for more than half a millennium, still intact. Either the collection itself is a miracle or the science behind the architechture is a human miracle.
海印寺珍藏的高麗《八萬大藏經》木雕印刷版，是佛、法、僧三寶中的法寶，也是渡過水淹、火劫、戰爭的奇蹟逸品。有趣的是，收藏八萬餘塊木板的藏經板殿建築本身，比八萬大藏經本身還早被聯合國教科文組織指定為世界文化遺產。光是防曬、對流、抗澇的結構設計，就足為人類文明珍品。
What to expact？一泊三食之外
For any temple stay, you stay in the temple, you dine with the monks, and you witness the routine of the monks. Haeinsa temple stay is a free-styled programe which you are allowed to walk around the temple area and join the morning and evening ceremonies with the monks. Tip: in every main building, there's at least one monk chanting. Each of them chants diffrently.
2 things I highly recommend: one is the eveing four instrument playing routine, praying for creatures on earth, spirits underneath, creatures in the water, and creatures in the sky, so called the four realms. The other is to wake up early and climb on the scholar hill to see morning mist in the moutains.
I'll leave the rest for you to explore during the all-day temple stay. Meditation in a real temple alone was what I did, unbothered. FYI, the 4 km valley from entrance of Gayasan national park to Haeinsa is an exquisite hike, especially in authumn.
除了寄宿寺內，與僧侶同飲同食是基本規格之外，海印叢林的整座寺區，以及伽倻山國家公園入口到海印寺山門的四公里長紅流洞溪谷，從象王山四季山林溪流到碑林散寺的人文景觀，都是一整趟旅途。
能四點摸黑早起，和僧侶一起在大寂光殿做早課固然好，但我早課後登學士嶺看山嵐吞吐，自己又鑽進獨聖亭裡默默靜坐一陣，也是難得體驗。即使哪裡都不去，茶室窗戶打開就是溪流，水聲很靜謐。這個旅宿套裝最棒的就是自由，什麼都自己探索，除了一開頭說明寺院規矩跟簡明導覽之外，什麼都要自找，跟佛法一樣。
格外建議的是：傍晚 6:48 到海印梵鐘前等奏樂。從為地上眾生祈福的太鼓、為地底冥界祈福的洪鐘，到為水中有情物祈福的鰲魚木器、為空中飛翔生物祈福的雲鑼，四界共歷十一分鐘，準點整時在七點結束，開始晚課。小秘密是：不只大殿，每座主要寺院裡都有僧侶誦經，而且他們唸的經還不是同一段。
Notes 注意事項
- Bring your own toiletries and towel. They also don't have hair dryer. monks never need that.
- Wear socks whenever you enter a temple. In Korea, no shoes allowed on wooden floor and in temples you are supposed to cover your bare foot.
- Be ready to hike. From bus stop to the temple is 1.5 km hike. From temple to temple stay, another 0.3 km. These are minimum. The temples on hills.
- Plugs in your room don't always work. Treat this as camping, preparation would be easier. No need to bring your own tent or sleeping bags.
- Food is vegan and could be spicy. You also are suppoesd to know how much exactly you need to eat at cafeteria. Finishing your food is courtecy.
- Check bus time table before you go and leave. Bus is every 40 mins with a lunch break. Also, prepare for carsikness. It's a long and windy road.
- 先查好公車時刻表，算好腳程。公車每四十分鐘才一班，中午還休一班。光從寺門走到公車站也要半小時。
- 準備暈車藥。山路又彎又長，你也不知道司機有沒有耐性。
- 輕裝備行。整個寺區都是山區，光是入出就免不了爬坡與階梯，建議不要帶行李箱。從公車站到寺門就是 1.5 公里的山路，山門到寺院又是半公里，從寺院往宿舍都還有 0.3 公里的坡要爬，請穿戴適合的裝備。
- 穿襪。所有室內都要脫鞋，所有寺院都不准赤腳。
- 自備盥洗用具、毛巾、吹風機。因為僧侶又不需要吹風機。
- 插座不見得能充電。建議當露營登山來準備，晚上山裡也涼。
- 食物拿了就要吃完，但湯和菜都有可能會辣，請斟酌取用。
Transportation 大眾運輸
Seoul to Haeinsa
* Seoul Express Bus Terminal (강남고속버스터미널) > East Daegu (동대구) (3:30 hours) > East Daegu(동대구) > Subway line 1 toward to Seolhwa-Myeonggok (설화명곡방향) >Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal (서부버스정류장) (20 minutes) > Haeinsa (1 hour 30 minutes).
* Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal (서울남부버스터미널) > Goryeong Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널)
07:50, 10:00, 12:40, 15:00, 16:50, 18:40
* Goryeong Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널) > Haeinsa Temple (해인사)
The bus runs every 40 minutes.
* KTX Express Train: Seoul station(서울역) > Dongdaegu Station (동대구역). Subway line 1 toward to Seolhwa-Myeonggok (설화명곡방향) > Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal (서부버스정류장) (20 minutes) > Haeinsa (해인사) (1 hour 30 minutes). The bus runs every 40~60min. from 06:40 till 20:00. around 20 times a day.
* Get off the bus at the Sungbo Museum (성보 박물관).
It takes 20 minutes by walk.
* Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal (서울남부버스터미널) > Goryeong Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널)
07:50, 10:00, 12:40, 15:00, 16:50, 18:40
* Goryeong Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널) > Haeinsa Temple (해인사)
The bus runs every 40 minutes.
* KTX Express Train: Seoul station(서울역) > Dongdaegu Station (동대구역). Subway line 1 toward to Seolhwa-Myeonggok (설화명곡방향) > Seobu Intercity Bus Terminal (서부버스정류장) (20 minutes) > Haeinsa (해인사) (1 hour 30 minutes). The bus runs every 40~60min. from 06:40 till 20:00. around 20 times a day.
* Get off the bus at the Sungbo Museum (성보 박물관).
It takes 20 minutes by walk.
*Follow the yellow road once you pass the temple gate.
* By taxi: Haeinsa Bus Terminal (해인사 버스터미널) > Templestay
*Taxi fare 7,000 won.
* By taxi: Haeinsa Bus Terminal (해인사 버스터미널) > Templestay
*Taxi fare 7,000 won.
Busan to Haeinsa Temple
*Seobu Sasang Terminal (서부사상터미널)> Goryung Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널)
7:05,8:20, 9:25,10:30, 11:40, 12:50, 14:00, 15:10, 16:10, 17:00, 17:50, 18:40,
*Goryung Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널) > Haeinsa Temple ( 해인사) - The buses run every 40 minutes.
7:05,8:20, 9:25,10:30, 11:40, 12:50, 14:00, 15:10, 16:10, 17:00, 17:50, 18:40,
*Goryung Bus Terminal (고령버스터미널) > Haeinsa Temple ( 해인사) - The buses run every 40 minutes.
*Follow the yellow road once you pass the temple gate.
* By taxi: Haeinsa Bus Terminal (해인사 버스터미널) > Templestay -
Taxi fare 7,000 won.
* By taxi: Haeinsa Bus Terminal (해인사 버스터미널) > Templestay -
Taxi fare 7,000 won.
首爾出發
*高鐵（KTX）首爾站到東大邱站（동대구）約 3.5 小時
*乘地鐵一號線，往舌化椧谷站（설화명곡역）方向，坐到西部巴士總站（서부버스정류장）約 20 分鐘
*搭乘往海印寺（해인사）公車，約 1.5 小時。公車約 40-60 分鐘一班，中午休一班，首班 6:40 末班 20:00
*從海印寺公車站到 Temple Stay，過海印寺山門後走左側黃色坡道，約 20 分鐘
釜山出發
*西部沙上公車總站（서부사상터미널）到高靈公車總站（고령버스터미널）約 1.5 小時。公車時刻：7:05,8:20, 9:25,10:30, 11:40, 12:50, 14:00, 15:10, 16:10, 17:00, 17:50, 18:40
*搭乘往海印寺（해인사）公車，約 40 分鐘
*從海印寺公車站到 Temple Stay，過海印寺山門後走左側黃色坡道，約 20 分鐘
Bus from Haeinsa to Daegu 海印寺出發往大邱公車時刻
Adult 8,500 Won in cash. Somebody will come and sell you ticket before bus arrival.
成人單程 8,500 圜，請備現金。公車到站前會有人來售票。
Bon voyage. 旅途愉快。
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