It all started when I first traveled to Kashmir/India. Kashmir 2018
Seven lakes trekking in Kashmir, 2017
Snow melting, Kashmir 2018
一切的故事就從我到喀什米爾開始。
為了七大湖健行所以我來到了喀什米爾,原先預計只待兩週的計畫卻趕不上人生無常的變化,最後我多待了兩個禮拜的時間,連山都走了兩次。
隔年再次造訪,這次我的心態更為柔軟也開始學習把握當下的如是體驗,除了再次健行一路美景讚嘆依舊,更多的機會是參與了馬伕與當地人的日常生活,一切不分秩序好壞與現實美醜,全然交付了嶄新的經驗美學,活在當下讓我學會感受自在,同時發現了生而為人的自由。
House Boat, Dal Lake, 喀什米爾-達爾湖著名的水上船屋,是當初英國殖民時期所遺留下來的人文資產之一,現今這些船屋多半都改作民宿或旅社等商業用途,提供外來觀光客們體驗水上生活與遙想歷史風韻。 Dal lake, Srinagar, Kashmir 2017
此外,我有幸看見喀什米爾最珍貴的人文寶藏:Pashmina織品工藝。而這也成了自己下半輩子最想創作的主題。於是一再的兩地(台灣、喀什米爾)往返,改變了我生命中的規律,奏起了新的章節旋律。
我將主題定為”Artisan Wallah-Shades of Kashmir”,作為人生尋繹之旅的第一站紀錄,同時期許作為開端,接續踏上更多不同的旅途,實踐心之所向。
一切正在開始。
Bakawal, Shepherd, Gypsy, 或稱作Mountain people 都是是喀什米爾地區、喜馬拉雅range山上游牧民族(nomadic tribe)的名字:牧羊人,吉普賽以及山地人,至於Bakarwal是由bakara(所指的是羊群)和wal(意思是照顧者)所組合而成的字詞,當地人都稱他們作高山牧羊者(High altitude goatherds or shepherds)。 Kashmir 2017
2018年末我在健行同行的馬伕們的家鄉村落待了一個多禮拜的時間,期間陸續寄宿在不同人家,得以一窺當地生活,更無意看見了傳統與現代/新與舊的交迭轉變。Life in remote village, Naranag, Kashmir 2018。
馬伕們,雖然也可以稱他們作Mountain people,但是他們主要的工作是帶領觀光客登山健行,與另外一種居住在高山上的Bakawal(高山牧羊人)有所差異。Ponymen, mountain people, Kashmir 2017
當地公車一景。搭乘當地交通工具可以快速地體驗日常生活文化,更有種在公路上的旅人浪漫。Srinagr, Kashmir 2018
街道上一個個店鋪,不管是雜貨店道小吃或是糕餅茶店,規模小巧卻滿溢當地色彩。Street shop in Srinagar, Kashmir 2017
工坊的一個午後,刺繡師傅們安靜且專注地完成手上織品。Atelier Sozni, Srinagar, Kashmir 2018
我與工坊討論打樣的色彩計畫。Pashm threads and other materials, Srinagar, Kashmir 2019
Kashmir著名的織品Pashmina來至於此類特殊羊種,棲息在海拔超過4500公尺高的地區。Pashmina goat (local term: Changra) in Tsomoriri, Ladakh, 2019
工坊主持人與他手上的滿幅刺繡品,當地稱作Jamawar。至少需要花費兩年的時間方能完成。Master of Embroidery, 2019
It all started when I first traveled to Kashmir/India. I arrived at Kashmir to trek to the great 7 lakes. The trip was planned for 2 weeks, but I ended up staying the month and climbed the mountain twice.
The 2nd time I was more relaxed and learned to appreciate more details, from the scenery to what the pony man that guided us were wearing. Their lifestyle was much different from what I am used to, but I grew accustomed soon enough.
I felt an incredible sense of freedom. Among the incredible beauty. What amazed me most, was the textile design, and what made Kashmir famous besides its nature — pashmina.
So I came back again and again. Eventually semi-moved here. I quench my desire to create in the craft of weaving and embroidering. Everyday I find myself looking for new ways to color, to pattern, to integrate with this ancient artistry.
Artisan Wallah-Shades of Kashmir is my documentation of this life-changing journey, and an encouragement to myself to embark on more journeys — wherever my heart takes me.
Everything is still at the very beginning.