造訪花蓮新城,除了檸檬冰,來這裡練習人生的樂章。Visiting at SinCheng, Hualien, we have ice lemon juice , and also practice the life Etudes.
新城鄉,位於花蓮最北端,地形呈狹長型,依山傍海有「新城走廊」之稱。此地為花蓮一帶平原最早開發之地,也為各族群落腳之處。地名由來,則為19世紀末期開山撫番時,漢人來到此築城,名為「新城」。
而新城老街的興盛,來自於立霧溪的砂金引來的淘金歲月。早在大航海時代,葡萄牙及西班牙船隊都有紀錄到此處的黃金河,葡萄牙記錄下稱次地為Rio Duero(黃金之河),據說,最繁華的時期,街上還有歌廳、電影院及酒家等娛樂場所呢。
新城老街裡,有個很特別的歷史景點「新城天主堂」,這天主教堂外觀以諾亞方舟為原型,外牆覆蓋著綠色的藤蔓,教堂前院有片小花園,搭配色彩鮮艷的彩繪玻璃窗,美到有如童話故事般,然而一旁因歷史因素繼續保存著的日式神社遺跡,似乎也不突兀地,靜靜地與天主教堂共榮共生,一同庇護著新城居民,也提醒著世人,追尋和平共融的安定力量。
教堂旁有個文青風格的灰色建築「練習曲」,跟前面老街另一端的「豆花兒」,都是一位新城國小棒球隊胡總教練,租下老宅整修而成的。
灰色牆面的「練習曲」是間不賣書的書店,這裡提供給旅客及當地居民來免費借書,以及給當地棒球隊小朋友休息聚會的地方,除了棒球外,他在這裡更兼顧這群小朋友課後無人照顧的生活,教他們念書,煮飯給他們吃,陪伴他們面對生活,擁抱夢想,練習人生的樂章。
「豆花兒」則是提供較年長的孩子及家長們一個一起做事、練習技能,也可提供一個較穩定的收入支撐這理念及想法,繼續照顧當地的孩子們。用在地的食材,提供最樸實最美味的傳統甜點。
「幸福不是與生俱來,是我們一同創造的成果。」豆花兒門外的簡介裡這句話,像是仙女施展的魔法棒般,在這小鎮,點燃許多生命力及希望。
【如何去】
- 自行開車:定位「新城秀林國中」或「新城公園」都還蠻好停車的。
- 公共運輸:從台鐵「新城站」走到老街約15分鐘。
ShinCheng township, located in the northern of Hualien. The shape of terrain is long and narrow, sitting along the ocean and mountains, it is also called "ShiCheng corridor". This place is the earliest explored plain in current Hualien area, also the place attracting different groups of people.
The name "Shin Cheng" means "new town" which is due to it is the first built city while Han people came here in late 19th century.
SinCheng old street was the main street during the golden age here. Li Wu river is rich in golden mine, as early as The Great Voyages, there was recorded the golden river here from Portuguese and Spanish fleets (Portuguese team marked here as "Rio Duero".) It is said that there were hotels, theaters and clubs on this street during the most prosperous period.
Here is also a historic site where Japanese shrine were set with a Catholic Church. This church shape is inspired from Noah's Ark. Green ivy is covering the outside wall and there is a small garden in front. The view is so stunning and it looks like a fairy tale scene. And the historic Japanese shines, which remains here due to some history factors. However, it is not odd to have them together here and actually they are sitting here and looking after the SinCheng people, also reminds people the peaceful power of Equality and Integration.
There is a hipster style grey building call "Etudes" and same as the other shop in the end of the old street called " Tou Hua Er (Bean Curd Child)", the owners are Coach Hu., of Sin Cheng elementary school baseball team.
He rent the old buildings and renovates them into the shop "Etudes"and it is a bookstore without selling books. It provides the residents or visitors to borrow the books and also a place for the baseball team boys to stay after training and after school. Besides the baseball dreams, he also take care of them on study, daily life and even meals as some of the boys may be lacking of looking after when their parents are busy working in other towns. Coach Hu. Is teaching them to face the music, embrace the dream and to practice the life.
And another shop "To Hua Er" is more like a shop for the older children or their parents to learn more skill and also have steady income to take care more local children. It is using the local ingredients to provide the traditional desserts bean curd (soybean pudding), you may taste the sweet delight and also the human interact.
“We are not born to be happiness, we create it together.” It is quoted from the introduction of this shop and it is just like magic wand cast by a fairy, a lot of vitality and hope are ignited in this small town.
【How to get there】
- By car: Google "SinCheng Xiulin Junior high school" or SinCheng part" where are easy to find park spots.
- By train: Take the train to "SinCheng station" and it takes about 15mins walking to the old street.
招牌Qㄉㄟˋㄉㄟˋ珍珠豆花,在地食材做的豆花純濃香,淋上黑糖漿很搭
天主教堂外觀以諾亞方舟為原型,這裡為船頭的部分,很特別門上還有門聯。