起初是四輪傳動的山路,到了Flora Hut 後,山路漸窄,兩旁的樹林與右側的江水滔滔相隨,約45分鐘後,只見清淺的Bishop’s Pool 橫跨山路,可選擇逕自跨過,或登上岩石,走上搖搖晃晃的吊橋。抬頭可見GridironCulch古老的橫匾,而大岩石下歷史悠久的Gridiron Hut 就在左側山上。接著在分叉路時,選擇 Upper Junction繼續前行,更像山間小徑了。
同行的有一對年過七十仍勇健的夫妻。他們衡量自己的體能調整速度,A與B則常把雙手插在口袋取暖,此段路甚為平坦,並無大礙。過了三小時後,我們在路邊的Shelter吃點心喝水,他倆翻找著食物。午餐後下起雨了,雨勢滂沱。急尋雨衣的B幾乎把他的大背包翻了一遍。我把雨衣放在上層,無須打開下層背包即可取得。他讚美我:「You are very clever!」我暗笑,我可不是新手呢。快到Table land open時,領隊說他要去看Rock Shelter是否有床位,要我們自行去Salisbury Lodge。
到Table land open後,我在暴雨中疾走,一則希望儘早趕到Salisbury Lodge,今夜有安身之處;另外則為了儘早結束大雨爆打眼鏡、眼前一片模糊的慘狀。
落腳Salisbury Lodge
我拼命趕路得到回報。之後,我看到許多想要住宿的登山客或繼續往下一站Ballroom Hut ,或在雨中搭帳棚。
Hut 外煙雨濛濛籠罩著山林,一整個下午到晚上唯一的工作是吃晚餐。大多數人早已在家準備好或只要煮開水沖泡即可,如何享受這段時間是滿大的挑戰呢。聊天?與今生只見一次面此後不再重逢的人們社交或深談?運動?已運動過度了啊!有一女子在做瑜珈。A說他因鞋不合腳而磨破,肌肉痠痛。我給他繃帶纏上,也教他幾招拉筋,緩和痠痛。因為Mary 跟我同是來自台灣,人們常搞不清我倆,這頗令我惱火。我認為此輩若非不夠聰明,就是無心,尤其是一起爬山快三年了,還能分不清楚,其段數也太高了。B竟自始即未搞錯,難不成他比別人聰明?
這是我第一次睡在穹蒼下,抬頭是星辰點點,可見右側樹影橫斜,當秋風吹過,瑟瑟作響,與不遠處的流水淙淙奏著交響曲,奇異的聲色之美,讓我妄想永遠銘記如此良辰,所以我竟捨不得睡或睡不著了。因此思緒飄飛,想起人生難忘的浪漫之夜與遠在台灣的丈夫,有一種愛的渴望在心底搖盪。又似乎朦朦朧朧地睡著了,似乎又有幾絲神經還醒著。空氣雖清涼,但住在Dry Rock Shelter比Hut冷啊。不過,我的睡袋仍然太暖,得把腳伸出來涼快;睡在我右邊的B卻冷得縮成一團,似乎想捱近我的睡袋取些暖意。在夢境的邊緣,似乎有一隻手握著我的手,似丈夫的寬大厚實的手,又似細緻修長的手……
再來時,第一次踏上Table Land的Mi因膝蓋不適,無意探訪Dry Rock Shelter;我還是殷勤地前去探看,因為難以忘懷那一夜。沿著河岸爬上山坡,走向Dry Rock Shelter的樹林疏雅古典,小徑清幽,在懸垂高大山壁之下的Shelter看起來甚為渺小,曾經包擁我們體溫的Mattress被掛在床沿,任陽光與風雨親炙。一切過往盡不可追,幾度左右徘迴後,我旋即離去。
週日是最後一天,也是跋涉甚為辛勞的一天。我們先打包,背到Salisbury Lodge卸下大背包,然後輕裝朝西去探看兩個洞穴。我們走在山坡或沼澤濕地間,只有雜草,並無森林,宛似原始的曠野。因幾日天雨,一路濕滑泥濘。B身穿鮮紅T恤,一路保持領先,然後坐在乾淨的草地上擺著Pose微笑地看著我們,差點連擠媚眼都使出來了。我不知他在向誰挑逗呢?同行的有現任或卸任國會議員,尼爾森National Party former Member of paliment Nick Smith也在其中。領隊一如專業導遊,極度正經地介紹地貌或歷史。我們拜訪了Pillar Cave和Richard Cave,前者有歷經悠久歲月點滴雕塑而成的石柱石筍,後者如一條看不見盡頭的地下伏流。
當Flora car park就在不遠之處,身可卸下重負,心卻覺難捨依依,因為一趟旅程已到盡頭。臨別時,依西方人禮儀,我和B擁抱道別,這份親近是始,也是終。
思想起Table Land時,我打從心裏漾起微笑,我已在此一再創造生命的記憶。它讓我覺得美無所不在,在山巔,在水涯,在任何年齡;它提醒我珍惜今朝,歡喜自己;它是美麗記憶的落腳處,也是一次重生。 4.5.6/4/2021 and 25/12/2021
Historical Journey
Tableland trip was a historical journey.
When we walked from Flora Car Park, The sky overhead was cloudy. On the way, we saw Gridiron Culch and visited Upper Gridiron Hut. The beech trees, Waterfall, bridges and river made the trippleasant, even though we each carried a heavy pack. Unfortunately, half an hour before we arrived at Salisbury Lodge, it began pouring. But we were very happy since we still had enough room to stay. That was Friday.
Sunday was a long day. We walked west to explore two caves. The first one (Pillar Cave)had lots of stalactites, which have been shaped for a long time and the second one(Richard Cave)looked like a stream underground, which was so long that we could not see the end. While we walked, the wild atmosphere of the land was attracting my soul.
After we walked back, it was past 2p.m. We felt it was further and harder than before, after three days and 48km tramping. We were very proud of finishing it, although I wish I could be a tree to stay in the forest forever.
On Saturday we started at eleven. We wore raincoats to pass by Butchertown, which had its name pasted on a tree. Ray made us venture inside Bishop Cave. And Edwin Moore’s Grave was a wooden cross .Then we stopped at Balloon Hut to have lunch before following an old water race through the forest.
On Saturday, Salisbury Lodge was more than full(30+trampers), so we went to Dry Rock Shelter, which was under the overhanging rock and was amazing. The sky was our ceiling, the forest was our curtain and the sound of wind was lovely music. I couldn’t sleep well, because it was so romantic. I wanted to keep awake to enjoy the beauty.