不只是天使的眼淚，也不只是上帝遺失在人間的藍寶石，根本是魔鏡，鏡中自有乾坤，樣貌豈只百變！
那時南橫一直都還是處於修護的狀態，部分路段在我那次前往時還是有管制的，只有某些時段開放通行。夜間開不熟的路還是很吃力的，有個路段因施工，需高繞避過，而高繞是進私人茶園的產業道路，完全未知，充滿不確定感，路的右邊就是下方施工路段，落差很大，滾下去就慘了，邊開邊懸著心。爬升一段後是個大左彎，只能硬著頭皮繼續往前開，看到有個鐵皮工寮，稍微安心了一點，開始下坡，終於又接回南橫。
應該還不到5點就走到了，由於還是一片黑，沒辦法確定湖的位置，靠上次來的印象找了個位置，但不是很好。很貪心地扛了2台單眼，2組腳架，結果只動用到1台，整個日出時段光線變化實在太快，沒辦法用2台優雅地拍，因為準備不足。但還是有收穫，在湖的北面與西面上上下下尋找好的角度，希望下次再去不會自亂陣腳。日出時分瞬息萬變，某個景沒拍到就是沒了！
海拔每上升1000公尺，氣溫約下降6.5度。平地雖然還有20幾度，這裡已經很冷了，只要沒陽光照射，風一吹就覺得冷，保暖一定要顧好。鼻子是我的弱點，空氣冷就流鼻水，擦到破皮。紫外線也強，若是晴天，從5k到13k都沒樹蔭遮蔽，容易曬傷，防曬也要注意。
往回走時，在三叉山、嘉明湖與新康山的標向牌旁跟山友聊天，不久真有3位從新康山下來的山友(他們從戒茂斯進，已露營數日)，其中2位登山界的前輩很特別，他們手拿的一項配備一般山友不會有，那就是「草革仔」，是的，就是我們鄉下除草的鐮刀，有幾條登山路線就是他們砍劈出來的。這種「沒路嗎?沒關係，自己砍一條」的概念與氣勢實在是很帥!
在”Culture Smart! Norway“裡讀到一段：”The great outdoors plays a large part in Norwegian life and there is certainly plenty of it to enjoy–from forests and mountains to lakes and fjords. Norwegians seem to have instinctive love and respect for nature and are knowledgeable about the folklore that surrounds it. The need to take advantage of the clean, fresh air and to find peace and calm is recognized and valued in Norwegian society. Miles and miles of hiking trails (which in a straight line could actually extended from Oslo to Tokyo) are to be found throughout the country…….Enjoying nature is all-year round experience…….And what of the Norwegian climate, which can often make a day indoors seem attractive to foreigners? Norwegians will simply assure you that there is no such thing as bad weather, merely the wrong clothes.
While Norwegians have a respect for private property, they also believe that nature is for all and should be enjoyed as FREELY as possible. An unofficial law, known as the right of passage, permits public right of access to uncultivated land anywhere, providing no damage or harm is caused. So you may walk, picnic, or set up a tent on any uncultivated land. You may pick berries and mushrooms…….
Those taking advantage of this right of access are required to do so with a sense of respect for landowners, other country users, and the natural environment.”
簡直是愛山人的Shangri-La!
特別有感，因為這次進嘉明湖，申請的入山證(本質也是威權時代遺留下來的莫名其妙且不具實質意義的措施)是11/9 & 11/10兩天，由於沒申請山屋住宿，11/9晚上要進去時，在大門管制站卡了一會，說入園時間是上午8時到下午5時，已過，派出所也下班了。但窗口就有個箱子，箱身上寫在開園時間後入園將入山證投入即可。溝通了一番，還是收了入山證，讓我進去。有質疑一下我為什麼沒申請住宿要扛那麼大一包，我說帶了2台單眼+2組腳架，要到嘉明湖拍日出。大概怕我在山裡隨意露營(真的沒要睡覺，帳篷睡袋都沒揹)，要我11/10下山時記得找他回報。
衷心希望那天我們也有「我們擁有的步道直線距離可以從高雄到……」(住高雄，當然要以高雄來舉例)來說說；熱愛大自然就像呼吸一樣自然；而登山呢，就像你我開車上高速公路一樣正常。
